The Yanchapedia: An online encylopedia of Wuyi Rock Tea (Yancha)
- Neldon Hamblin
- 1 minute ago
- 30 min read
Hey friends! You all know that I have always enjoyed the educational side of tea- holding tastings and introducing people to the wonderful world of Chinese teas has always been a special interest of mine, and one of my most popular posts has been my beginner's guide to Wuyi yancha as well as the cupping and tasting page, so naturally I had to expand on the content.
As an international ambassador for WuyiStar and a yancha aficionado, I especially enjoy sharing Wuyi and teaching people about what makes this area so special. I have long had this ambition to share what I can about WuyiShan and yancha with everyone and I constantly receive messages on my social media sites asking for tips on yancha. So, for your reference, I have prepared a very basic dictionary of some of the more common terms used when describing yancha, having started this post back in October of 2023- after 3 years of research, I decided it was finally ready for publication. This is NOT meant to be all-inclusive, but it does include many of the most common terms and oft-questioned terms in the yancha industry. Enjoy!
Special thanks to WuyiStar for providing great reference imagery and helping with the translations and content, as well as to Andrea (@booksbitesnbevvies on instagram) for proofreading this, and to the amazing Gus of Rivers and Lakes Tea for the help finalizing content and providing such wonderful reference imagery.
For ease of readability, I have prepared this table of contents. Simply click each heading to go to the section you want. At the end of each section is a link to direct you back to the table of contents.
Table of Contents:
1.) Roasting Terms
2.) Production Terms
3a.) Si Da Ming Cong
Fundamental Terms:
Yan Cha (“岩茶,” “rock tea”)- a specific type of tea unique to Fujian province, specifically the Wuyi mountains. Yancha is an oxidized and roasted oolong with leaves processed as strips rather than balls.
Wuyi Mountains (“武夷山,” “Wǔyí Shān”) – A mountain range in Fujian Province, China, renowned for its rocky and untamed terrain. This is the area where yancha is grown- the unique rocky soil and minerals in the area lend the key characteristics to yancha in mouthfeel, flavor, and aroma. This area has 39 peaks, 72 caves, and 99 cliffs, so the names of the famous growing regions will be covered below as well.
Roasting Terms:
Roasting in Wuyishan is different from what we typically think of in a Western sense. In the West, we’re used to a simple light–medium–heavy roasting scale, largely borrowed from coffee terminology. In Wuyishan, roasting is guided much more by the roaster’s feeling and experience and is a more complex spectrum. Yancha is roasted in multiple rounds with long resting periods, and each stage is adjusted according to the leaf’s moisture, aroma, elasticity, and overall feel—so it doesn’t follow a straightforward linear spectrum like Western roasting terminology.
There is a concept of huo gong (“火功”), or ‘fire skill,’ which refers to both the level of roasting and the roaster’s mastery in achieving it. Because of this craft-based approach, Wuyi roasting is aimed at enhancing and revealing the tea’s inherent character, rather than simply covering flaws or preserving the leaf, as may be the case in other roasting traditions. The best way to describe it is that roasting gives WuYi yancha its soul- the delicate balance of the roasting level with the material’s subtleties creates something truly magical to drink.
Charcoal Roasting (“炭焙,” “charcoal roasting”) – roasting for Yancha involves either electric roasts or charcoal. Most larger yancha producers will roast the leaves over electric roasting ovens for a more consistent flavor profile, but the most traditional way is over charcoal using layered heat rather than direct heat. Typical ranges vary between producers; charcoal roasting uses indirect heat and cannot be defined by exact temperatures, as such, all figures provided below are relative and are more fit for electric roasting standards than charcoal roasting.
The tea leaves will be fired for many hours depending on the level of roasting desired by the tea maker. Charcoal roasting imparts deeper, smokier, and more complex notes, while electric roasting results in a smoother, cleaner, and more controlled flavor profile. If you detect a more intense roasted, smoky, or wood-like aroma and flavor, it's likely charcoal-roasted. If the tea is more evenly roasted with a clean, nutty taste, it is likely electric-roasted. To help identify if a tea is charcoal roasted, there are a few ways:
1.) Look at the brewed liquor: charcoal roasted tends to have a deeper, more amber or brownish-red hue to it, whereas electric roasted teas tend to be lighter amber or golden-forward, with a more translucent, thin appearance; electric roasted tea will also yield a brighter tea in visual clarity, but charcoal roasted teas will tend to be cloudier and more opaque in the tea soup.
2.) Look at the flavors and mouthfeels: charcoal roasted teas tend to be richer with more roasty, earthy and mineral notes, though this is not always the case. Charcoal roasted also tends to be more full-bodied and rounded in mouthfeel, with a complex hui gan and lingering woody flavor to it; electric roasted teas tend to be brighter and fresher with a smoother, gentler finish and less-pronounced roastiness. Charcoal roasted teas also tend to start out slightly stronger in aroma and gradually develop over time, whereas electric roasted teas start out more evenly and stay fairly consistent throughout each steep.
3.) Look at the dry leaves: for charcoal roasted teas, the dry leaves may have a slightly darker hue than you’d expect, as well as a dry or matte surface, almost a dusty-looking surface at times; for electric roasted teas, they typically will be a lighter brown than charcoal roasted, appearing more evenly roasted in color and slightly glossy in finish, but overall more uniform in appearance.
Qīng huǒ (“轻火,” “light fire”) - “light fire” is the lowest level of yancha roasting, which means that the temperature used in the production process is lower and the roasting time is shorter. This means that the tea produced has more of the original, more floral-forward aroma, and is more similar to something like a tieguanyin in terms of aromas and colors. Light fired leaves will generally retain a greener, grayish color and are more subtle in complexity, with a smooth, lingering aromatic finish. Light roasted yancha is generally roasted at temperatures around 100℃ for 8-12 hours, or a “low and slow” method. Again, these numbers are approximate and not standardized—they are meant to give you a general sense of roasting levels. Note that they apply more accurately to electric roasts than to traditional charcoal roasting
Zhōng huǒ (“中火,” “medium fire”) - the most commonly drank roasting level, medium fire might sound like it’s the middle-level of roasting to a Western audience, but it is actually slightly different. You might also see this referred to as “balanced roast” due to its characteristics. Medium fire refers to the fact that the tea is roasted but not as heavily as the zuhuo roasts. Medium-fired teas also tend to be rested for at least a year before drinking as it helps the roast balance out with the natural flavors of the tea. This medium roasting has a more balanced aroma and taste, which both retains some of the fresher qualities of yancha but also allows for a nice balance between the other characteristics of yancha. Medium roasted teas tend to be better for aging than light roasted teas and have a deeper complexity to their flavors. Medium roasted teas are roasted at temperatures around 100-120℃ for 8-10 hours, resulting in a more rounded profile with a deeper flavor than the lighter roasted teas, but not as deep as zuhuo.
Zú huǒ (“足火,” “foot roasting” or “full fire”)- the best translation would be “roasted until the fire is sufficient,” and in WuYi yancha, it means the leaves were roasted at a higher temperature than the other more common levels. ZuHuo roasts are fired at around 120-130℃ for around 6-8 hours. This can also take up to 20 hours, though, like with the high-firing! Now, while the temperature is higher, it is important to note that the key thing that distinguishes these higher roasts is the TIME spent roasting, rather than just the temperature, as you want to apply heat but not burn or damage the tea leaves; think of it like a nice brisket. You want a brisket to be cooked low and slow at a consistent temperature and slow pace, 12-18 hours. The teas are the same way. Any tea can be fired at a higher temperature to mask imperfections in the base material, so maintaining a nice balance of higher temperature and longer roasting is a truly masterful skill the roasters possess.
Gāo huǒ (“高火,” “high fire”)- High fired yancha is available but less common. High fired yancha is generally roasted at temperatures around 140-150℃ for 6-8 hours. High fired yancha generally is intended for long-term aging as the higher roasts extend the “shelf-life” of teas.
As an addition, the variety of terms used for higher roasting has been one of the trickiest aspects of sourcing and analyzing wuyi yancha. For example, the distinction between Zu Huo and Gao Huo is not universally standardized across Wuyi and really varies by producers and their idea of what a high fire is.
Toad’s Backs (“蛤蟆皮”, “蛤蟆背” or “起泡,” “toad’s skin” or “blistering”)- a distinctive characteristic indicating uneven moisture in the leaf during roasting, sometimes intentional, sometimes not. Toad's backs are seen on the backs of the tea leaves and present as small blisters or bubbles on the surface of the dried leaves. For example, here is a great picture I took of a toad's back on a lovely Zhangping shui xian pillow:
Toads Back on an Oolong Tuìhuǒ (“退火,” “retreating fire”)- the resting period after tan bei (charcoal roasting) that the yancha leaves undergo. This resting period applies to all teas, charcoal or electric roasted, but is especially important and emphasized for charcoal roasting.
Fù Béi (“‘复焙,” “re-roasting”) - the process of re-roasting yancha to balance the flavors, especially as it ages. 复 (fù) means "re-" or "again," implying that this is an action taken on the tea after an initial process, such as its initial roasting. 焙 (béi) means "roast/bake" referring to the careful process of roasting or refreshing the tea during this stage. Many aged yancha will be re-roasted several times over the years, generally 2 to 3 times after a period of 3 or more years. For young teas (less than 1-2 years old), re-roasting is less common because the tea has not yet undergone significant aging, and the initial roasting flavor is still fresh and can actually be overpowering, leading to a period of resting before packaging and drinking the yancha. For aged teas, especially those that have been stored for several years, 1–3 re-roastings over time may be performed, depending on the producer's assessment of the tea’s aging process and its current flavor profile. How often the tea is re-roasted also depends on how the tea was stored—if the tea has been stored in moist or humid conditions, it may require re-roasting to prevent mold or to dry out the leaves, whereas dry storage may lead to fewer re-roastings. This is also why we see teas in areas like Hong Kong roasted to a significant level, also called “HK Death Roast,” to mitigate the impacts higher humidity has on the tea leaves.
Click here to return to the table of contents.
A comparison chart of Charcoal Roasting and Electric Roasting
Production Terms
These are a list of the common terms you will come across when researching yancha production.
Cai Zhai (“采摘,” “Picking the leaves)- Leaves are generally picked between mid-April and early May, with a standard of one bud with two to three leaves.
Wei Diao (“萎凋,” “withering”)- Moisture in the fresh leaves is evaporated to enhance aromatic compounds- the leaves are sun-dried and placed in a large bamboo tray and dried indoors.
Zuo Qing (“做青,” “Oxidizing”)- This is a crucial step in deciding the aroma of the tea. Tea leaves are placed in a bamboo tray and shaken, sometimes it may be done in a cylinder and rotated to bash the leaves together; this manual step is the so-called Yao Qing (摇青)。
Liang Qing (“凉青,” “cooling”)- The period where the leaves are allowed to cool back down to room temperature.
Sha Qing (“殺青,” “stop oxidation”/ “kill green”)- The yancha leaves are roasted at high temperature to evaporate moisture and to prevent further oxidation by stopping all enzymatic activities.Yancha typically uses tumbling drums for sha qing versus pan-frying seen in other teas, like tieguanyin.
Rou Nian (“揉捻,” “kneading”)- This is the process that gives the tea the desired shape and determines its flavor. Kneading and rubbing by hand or machine damages the cells of the tea leaves and brings the flavors onto the surface of the leaves which makes the essential oils instantly ready to be infused into hot water when brewed.
Hong Bei (“烘焙,” “baking”) - This is the multi-stage finishing step for yancha, used to reduce moisture, enhance aroma, and develop the characteristic yan yun. If done over charcoal, you will see it called Tan Bei (炭焙, Tàn Bèi). Roasting mellows the leaves out and allows for more flavor development in the finished tea, transforming the tea aromas into something completely different for a unique experience.
Varietals and Common Yancha
There are over 1,000 different varieties of Wuyi yancha, so this will by no means be an exhaustive list. I will continue to update this, or if interest arises, I will create a separate entry just for WuYi yancha varietals.
Pin Zhong (“品种,” “varietals”)- when used, this generally refers the asexual varietals of yancha imported from other regions or hybridized by the Tea Institute from the 1980s-present.
Xiao Zhong (“小种,” “small varietals”)- these are the small leaved varietals of yancha grown and produced in Wuyishan. Xiao Zhong are the only commercially produced teas in Wuyishan grown from seed and not from cultivars, generally sexually reproduced plants.
WuYi Cai Cha (“武夷菜茶,” “native varietal group”)- the native varietal group of Wuyi yancha, cai cha (Camellia sinensis var. bohea), of which many of the famous Wuyi yancha descend from.
The Four Great Cultivars of WuyiShan
"Sì Dà Míng Cóng," ("四大名丛," or "four great tea cultivars,” literally “four famous clusters”)
This term means it's one of the four "greats" in Wuyi yancha. These are teas deeply rooted in the cultural history of WuyiShan and are considered the most definitive representations of yancha. The four “greats” are listed below:
Da Hong Pao ("大紅袍" - "Big Scarlet Robe" or "big red robe")
Arguably the most famous and well-known yancha out there. This tea commands high prices due to its fame and is known for its creamy, sweet flavor reminiscent of toasted nuts and a noticeable mineral-like quality to each cup (the beauty of the yan yun- or in this case, often referred to as drinking the “essence of the mountains”).
When talking about da hong pao, there are three types that all go under that same name: 1.) mother tree (“母树大红袍,” “Mǔshù dàhóng páo”); 2.) purebred da hong pao (clonal descendants of the original 6 mother tree bushes); and 3.) “da hong pao in name only.” Most commercially available da hong pao will be a blend of yancha, usually a shui xian and rou gui, coupled with a small amount of purebred da hong pao leaves (generally QiDan varietal “奇丹” and BeiDou varietal “北斗”), to create a flavor profile similar to the original mother bush product. As a caveat, China banned the production of mother tree da hong pao, or the original da hong pao bushes, in 2006. This means that if a tea is sold as “mother tree da hong pao,” it’s most certainly a fake unless the price exceeds several thousand US dollars per gram; for example, an oft-quoted auction price of 20 grams of mother tree da hong pao was about $28,000USD (RMB 208,000, or about $1,400 per gram!).
Shui Jin Gui ( "水金龜," "Golden water turtle")
A lighter roasted yancha found originally in the Niu Lang Keng area, shui jin gui is much more noticeably green than other yancha. Shui jin gui is known for having a sweeter, refreshing taste, reminiscent of herbs and florals, having a lovely orchid undertone. Shui jin gui has multiple aromas that change throughout the session, so make sure you pay attention; notable aromas from the leaves will be frankincense, orchids, and spices.
Tie Luo Han ("铁罗汉," or "Iron Arhat")
Generally a lighter roasted yancha, though medium to higher roasts can be found, tie luo han is known for its characteristic strong floral aroma and toasted, woody undertones.
Bai Ji Guan ("白鸡冠," or "white cockscomb")
Another lighter roasted yancha, bai ji guan is known for being intensely aromatic and floral with a layer of sweetness reminiscent of fresh fruits. The yan yun will be present but more gentle, lingering in the background almost; I would find the intense aromatics of this tea comparable to a dancong oolong.
Click here to return to the table of contents.
Rou Gui (“肉桂,” “ròuguì,” “Chinese Cinnamon”)- Rou gui is one of the most common and popular varietals of yancha, being known for its characteristic taste and aroma of Chinese cinnamon and spices. Rou gui is very flavor-forward and can be on the fruitier side or the more spiced side; rou gui gained popularity in the 1980s and has remained a staple yancha to this day. On the entire market, rou gui and shuixian make up over 80% of total cultivated yancha, with rou gui accounting for approximately 29% of all plantings in WuyiShan.
Shui Xian (“水仙,” “water sprite” or “narcissus flower,” sometimes translated to “water immortal”)- sometimes spelled “Shui Hsien,” this tea is known for its floral and woodsy flavors, generally being a higher roasted tea. Shui xian is also grown in Taiwan and Guangdong (for example, mi lan xiang tends to come from shui xian subspecies) and can be found as a lighter, greener oolong (as is the case with Fujian’s Zhangping Shui Xian). Characteristics to look for in a good shui xian are a high floral aroma and a honeyed taste.
Lao Cong Shui Xian (“老欉水仙,” “old bush water sprite”)- this is a term commonly seen. Lao Cong Shui Xian comes from older bushes (some claimed to be as old as 200 years), resulting in a stronger flavor and thus commanding higher prices. The older age of the bushes creates a tea that is sort-of “dialed up to 11,” with the flavors and aromas being much more intense and prevalent, as well as a stronger cong wei. When drinking lao cong shui xian, I tend to look for three characteristics: 1.) the woody/mossy flavors (i.e. camphorwood plus moss), 2.) floral flavors (i.e. orchid) underneath the mossiness, and 3.) the more vegetal and savory flavors of the tea. A good lao cong shui xian should have all three of these characteristics in balance with each other, in my opinion.
Ban Tian Yao (“半天腰,” “half sky waist” or more commonly “waist halfway to the sky”)- a lesser-known yancha, Ban Tian Yao is known for its unique roasting process which imparts a slightly smoky, roasted/toasted flavor to the tea. There is some debate as to whether this constitutes a member of the Four Famous Firs (si da ming cong), but there is also a theory that ban tian yao is an older name for one of the modern varietals.
Shi Ru Xiang (“石乳香,” “Stone Milk Fragrance”)- one of my favorite yancha types, shi ru (also referred to as “yan ru”) dates back to the Song Dynasty and there was an imperial tribute tea with the same name under emperor Taizong. Shi ru plants have a lower yield than other varietals, making it much more uncommon to find. Shi ru has notes of tropical fruits, chocolate, spice, and tobacco, and true to its name, an intense sweet creamy mouthfeel with a prominent minerality and yan yun.
Xiao Hong Pao (小红袍, “Small Red Robe”)- Xiao Hong Pao originates in JiuLongKe and is often misunderstood as a lesser Da Hong Pao; historically this refers to a related but distinct cultivar. Typically lighter in structure than DHP, with brighter aromatics and less weight
Ba Xian (“八仙,” “Eight Immortals”) - this is an interesting one. Ba Xian originates in Guangdong Province, where it was used to produce dancong oolongs for generations. It made its way to Zhu An village in Fujian Province and in the 1980s, to Wuyi, where it has been grown as yancha ever since. Ba Xian is known for its rich and deep floral aromas that linger, as well as a full body. It has notes of incense, sandalwood, and osmanthus, with savory woody flavors coupled with toasted oats and caramelized brown sugar. It’s a fascinating tea and has characteristics that would make you think you are drinking a dancong, almost.
Gua Zi Jin (“瓜子金,” “Golden Melon Seed”)- another uncommon and rarer varietal, gua zi jin is incredibly fragrant, smelling of roasted pumpkin or sunflower seeds, hence its name. It has flavor notes of deep fruit, spices, pumpkin, jasmine, roses, and the characteristic stoney minerality of Wuyishan materials. It is a deep, juicy tea, with a thicker body and a nice rich texture with a long lasting aroma.
Bei Dou (“北斗,” “Big Dipper”)- Bei Dou is one of the true clonal descendants of the Da Hong Pao mother bushes and is arguably the most important “pure” Da Hong Pao cultivar in modern production. Compared to Qi Dan, Bei Dou tends to be more structured and mineral-driven, with less overt sweetness and more depth
Huang Mei Gui (“黃玫瑰,” “Yellow Rose”)- a relatively newer yancha, huang mei gui is usually lighter roasted and lighter oxidized than other yancha, creating a highly aromatic floral taste reminiscent of the namesake yellow roses.
Qi Lan (“奇兰,” “Rare Orchid”)- an incredibly fragrant varietal of yancha, qi lan is straightforward fifth floral notes and intense aromatics. It is thin and light bodied, with notes of wild flowers, grass, caramel, cinnamon, spices, and a sweet, nutty aroma. Depending on the roast level, you can find it to be anything from lighter and more floral to darker and woodier with lighter florals.
Huang Qi (“黄奇”)- a hybrid varietal of huang jin gui and ba ya qi lan, created in the 1970s. This yancha is known for a thicker body with a gentle and smooth finish, having notes of osmanthus, orchid, and toasted nuts. This is definitely a more floral-forward yancha.
Mei Zhan (“梅占,” “Plum Blossom”)- another more recent varietal and difficult to translate exactly, mei zhan has been recognized since 1985. It has strong floral notes of plum blossoms (hence the “mei”), orchids, and roses, as well as creamy hazelnuts with a typical strong minerality. The body is thicker and it brews up with complex aromatic profiles that leave one wanting more. Mei Zhan can range from heavily roasted (resulting in a nuttier, deeper spiced flavor profile) to lighter and more medium roasts (resulting in more balanced, lighter profiles with more forward floral fragrances).
Fo Shou (“佛手,” “Buddha’s Hand”)- a varietal not native to Wuyishan, but rather to nearby Yongchun, Fo Shou is known for its relatively larger leaves. It may also rarely be referred to as Xue Li (“snow pears”), due to its typical pear fragrances, but it more commonly is referred to as Fo Shou.
Jin Mu Dan (“金牡丹,” “Golden Peony”)- a modern hybrid oolong developed in 2001 and approved formally in 2003, though the parents are debated. On paper, the commonly accepted heritage is that Jin Mu Dan is a cross between Huang Guan Yin (黄观音) and Huang Dan (黄旦), though others do suggest that the parents are Huang dan and Tie Guan Yin. Jin Mu Dan brews a thick-bodied tea with strong osmanthus and floral fragrances.
Jin Fo (“金佛,” “Golden Buddha”)- a rather uncommon/rare yancha that one does not see often, Jin Fo was developed in the 1990s under You YuQiong, one of the inheritors of the “national intangible cultural heritage of Wuyi Rock Tea making techniques.” The origins of Jin Fo are murky, with some sources suggesting it is an ancient varietal recently rediscovered and others stating that Jin Fo arose from local cai cha. Another story states that in 1993, You YuQiong discovered a new strain that had mutated from another- the special fragrance of the tea reminding her of the famed “Golden Buddha Tea” of the Song Dynasty, a tea lost to history. Jin Fo is known for being incredibly sweet (sweeter than most yancha, even) and smooth with a rich aroma.
Bu Zhi Chun (“不知春,” “I Don’t Know Spring/Ignorant of Spring”) - a rarer varietal, known for being incredibly fragrant and rich. Bu Zhi Chun combines the aromas of the si da ming cong teas with the richness and velvety texture of shui xian. The name comes from the harvesting season, which is relatively short for yancha, occurring at the end of winter and before spring harvest. It has a woody, earthy, chestnut-like aroma with notes of agarwood and fruit. The yield is much lower making this tea much more difficult to obtain. Hallmarks of flavor include clear florals, frankincense, sugarcane, and stone fruit. The aroma in the cup after brewing also lingers long.
Qian Li Xiang (“千里香,” “Thousand Mile Aroma”)- a rarer varietal from Hui Yuan Keng known for its incredible aromatics. This tea is usually roasted on the lighter end of the spectrum to preserve and enhance a lot of the volatile aromatic compounds, which weaken with intense roasting- however, you can find medium and higher roasted versions. Qian li xiang has flavor notes of ripe fruits and incense with a sweet complexity.
Huang Guan Yin (“黃觀音,” “Yellow Goddess of Mercy”)- introduced in 2003, huang guan yin is a cross between huang jin gui (aka “huang dan”) and tie guan yin. This is a very lightly roasted yancha. It is incredibly fragrant, combining the beauty of yancha with the aromatics of tie guan yin; this tea has aromas reminiscent of biscuits, woodsy herbs, orchids, and cream. This tea is thick-bodied and has a long aftertaste.
Yu Qilin (“玉麒麟,” “Jade Qilin”)- a lesser-known varietal from Jiu Long Ke, yu qilin is a floral forward yancha with notes of milk, roses, bamboo leaf, stone fruits, toasted biscuits, and more. It is known for its high sweetness and mild astringency yet prominent minerality. The rose and cream floral are really the highlight of yu qilin.
Zi Hong Pao (“紫红袍,” “Purple-red Robe”)- also called Jiu Long Pao (WuYi cultivar 303), zi hong pao is a relatively newer varietal. Zi hong pao is made from purplish-red leaves, which means a higher anthocyanin content, tending to yield a more astringent, bitter tea. However, with a well-done roast, zi hong pao has a strong woody aroma with an intense milky, smooth, spice forward tea soup with notes of camphor, wood, and eucalyptus. This tea, true to its name, finishes with a mild but mouth watering astringency.
Su Xin Lan (“素心兰,” “Pure orchid”)- currently the “up and coming” varietal on the Chinese market, Su Xin Lan is a historic varietal from Hui Yuan Keng. The name refers to the intense aroma of the tea- it is very orchid-forward but has a gentle, sweet profile with a strong minerality underlying. It is also known for being very bright and juicy for a yancha. This is a very complex aromatic oolong and the aroma tends to fill the room when the water hits the leaves.
Yue Ming Xiang (“悦茗香,” “Pleasant Tea Fragrance”)- Yue Ming Xiang is a more recent varietal of yancha developed between 1984 and 1991 by the Tea Research Institute of Fujian Academy of Agricultural Sciences, officially declared a varietal in 2002. Yue Ming Xiang is known for its intense floral aroma and refreshing, lingering taste with a prominent yanyun and noticeable minerality underlying the florals.
Ai Jiao (“矮脚乌龙,” “Ǎi jiǎo wū lóng,” “Dwarf-legged Oolong”)- a heritage cultivar of Wuyi oolong with a history of over 100 years of production, named for the smaller size of the tea bushes, the shorter growing season, and the smaller leaf size compared to other varietals. It is possible it originated in Jian’ou, Dongfeng Town, about an hour and a half drive southeast of Wuyishan, but it is not certain. Key characteristics include a similar tasting profile to shui xian.
Zui Gui Fei (“醉贵妃,” “Drunken Concubine”)- one of my personal favorite teas from WuyiShan, and one more uncommon to see as it is a cai cha yancha, Zui Gui Fei is floral, fruity, and milky- it’s genuinely incredible. IF you can find it, try it. It’s one to really sit and savor, as it’s complex and beautiful, hence the poetic name.
Flavor and Aroma Terms
This is a list of the common terms you will see when discussing flavors and aromas in wuyi yancha.
Cong Wei (“枞味,” “bush taste”)- Cong wei refers to the unique characteristic of older yancha bushes. Cong wei is difficult to describe as it’s quite a nuanced flavor, but when it’s present, it is a true testament to both the quality of the bushes and the craftspeople who created the tea; however, I tend to describe cong wei as the prolonged, thick sweetness to a tea. The congwei should be a lingering sweetness that complements the tea’s flavors.
Qingtai (“青苔,” “green moss” or “lichen”)- Qingtai and Congwei are, in essence, two sides of the same coin when it comes to flavors. Qingtai refers to the greener, mossy aroma coming from the leaves that transfers slightly to the flavor, lending to the experience. Qingtai and cong wei create an experience that lends to the overall description of yancha as “drinking the flavors of the mountains.”
Xiang (“香,” “fragrance”)- one of the key characteristics used to determine yan yun, meaning that the tea is having a clean and pure fragrance that is not sharp or too heavy, sometimes reminiscent of orchids.
Chen Xiang (“陈香,” "Aged fragrance,")- the scent of tea that has been aged or processed to give it a richer, more complex aroma.
Qing (“清,” “clear, pure”)- another key characteristic of yan yun, meaning that the taste is refreshing and smooth, and that the tea liquor has a bright and clear color.
Gan (“甘,” “sweet”)- the third of four terms used in determining yan yun, meaning that the tea has a mellow sweet taste which is delicious with a sweet aftertaste and that it is not overly bitter.
Huo (“活,” “lively”)- the final term used in determining yan yun, meaning that the tea is vibrant and offers a unique feeling and tea drinking experience.
Yan Yun (“岩韵,” “rock rhyme,” or more poetically “essence of the rocks”)
This term essentially refers to the inherent qualities of a good yancha. Yan yun is the result of the terroir in Wuyi as well as the style of roasting and production of the yancha and gives rise to the phrase “taste of the mountains.” Yan yun is more difficult to describe as it is an abstract trait of yancha (as in, it’s difficult to describe something so abstract- because yan yun is more of a feeling than anything physical, it usually is described with more poetic, flowery language, which can be confusing to those new to drinking rock oolongs). The best way I can describe it, without actually giving you yancha to taste, would be that yan yun is in essence the lingering cooling feeling in the back of the throat after sipping the tea; it’s not just the initial wave of flavors present as you sip, but the sensations you get as you drink. Additionally, while yan yun doesn’t affect the longevity of the tea, teas with prominent yan yun tend to last longer in my experience.
Identifying YanYun
To identify yan yun, I suggest the following:
1.) pay attention to the aftertaste of the tea. As you swallow, what flavors linger in your mouth and throat? It might be sweet or more mineral-like, but there should be some flavor lingering; I like to describe it as sipping a strong, high-quality mineral water, with that sort-of mineral (i.e. slight saltiness) flavor lingering. It’s almost like sipping a glass of mineral water with the mineral flavors amped up to 11.
2.) After sipping the tea, take a deep breath in. Look for a cooling sensation in the back of your throat; if you feel a sort-of cool, refreshing feeling in your throat, congratulations, you’ve noticed yan yun!
3.) pay attention to how the flavors change and shift with each steep. If the flavors continue to evolve and shift after you’ve sipped the tea, with you noticing more subtleties and nuanced layers to the tea, that’s a sign of yan yun.
Identifying yan yun takes time and practice, but with effort, you will be able to tell yan yun in no time. Yan yun is one of the magical elements that makes yancha such a delicious tea to experience and when you begin to notice it, you’ll feel more attuned to these enchanting flavors that make yancha so desirable amongst tea-heads.
YanWei (“烟味,” “Smoky flavor”)- Easily identifiable, primarily resulting from excessive heat exposure during roasting. It’ll smell burnt, or like a campfire or cooking wok.
QingWei (“青味,” “Grassy flavor”)- Also affectionately called “weed flavor,” it’s just a green, grassy taste in tea leaves. Some have also noticed this flavor to taste sort of paper-like.
Sōu wèi (“馊味,” “Sour flavor”)- Also called “yancha funk” by some, this off aroma is caused by heat exposure during transportation of fresh leaves, or improper storage of the leaves (storing dry leaves in a humid environment, poor packaging allowing moisture in, etc.) and is similar to the off-green taste.
Jiāo wèi (“焦味,” “Burnt taste”)- A heavy, unpleasant roasted note- think burnt coffee grounds. This primarily occurs when leaves are scorched during the kill-green process.
Fǎn Qing Wei (“反青味,” “Off-green taste”)- A slightly green flavor, where the leaves taste almost like a fresher greener tea or have noticeable grassier notes. This develops when tea leaves absorb moisture during storage and is one of the reasons why yancha is often reroasted several times. This is also referred to as “going back to green”
Shui Wei (“水味,” “Watery taste”)- This means the tea has little to no flavor and tastes like plain water. It indicates insufficient roasting, meaning that moisture was left in the leaves that should have been roasted out.
Click here to return to the table of contents.
Terroir and Regional Terms
Wuyi Rock teas are nothing without their unique growing environment; a bold statement, I know, but one that I’ve found incredibly true over the years. An oft-repeated phrase when tasting yancha is that with each sip, you’re “tasting the essence of the mountains;” in essence, the unique rocky soils, mineral composition of the soils, and the specific location each lend characteristics to the finished tea, often prominent in the form of yan yun. Now, the terroir (growing regions) of yancha are important to note and each has their own unique characteristics and microclimate that define the teas produced in each area. The Wuyi mountains have 39 peaks, 72 caves, and 99 cliffs in the growing region, meaning that you'll see the characters “峰” (fēng, “peak”), “岩” (yán, “cliff” or “rock”), “坑” (kēng), “涧” (jiàn, “stream”) often in this section. Featured below is a very rough map to show the general location of Wuyi terroir. As a caveat, the micro-terroir are hard to pin down, so this is a very generalized map and should not be used for navigational purposes.
DanXia Landforms (“丹霞地貌,” “dānxiá dìmào”)- The unique, steep red conglomerate and sandstone cliffs and slopes in WuyiShan- DanXia are found throughout China, especially the Southeast, Southwest, and Northwest, in many different forms. These striking features get their name from "丹” (“dān”) and “霞” (“xiá”) in Chinese, which directly translate to “vermillion sunglow,” describing the striking reddish color of the rocks, looking like a sunset, almost.
Nine-Bend Stream (“九曲溪,” “Jiǔ qū xī”)- the soul of the Wuyi Mountains, the Nine-Bend Stream originates in the Northwestern part of WuyiShan, near the Tongmu Pass and Tongmu Village (TongMuGuan “桐木关”).
Zhengyan (“正岩,” “true cliff” or literally “real rock”)- the most desirable location for yancha production, Zhengyan is also referred to as the “core” production area for yancha. Zhengyan soils are shallow, gravel-rich, highly drained, and formed from weathered Danxia sandstone and conglomerates. Zhengyan material commands high prices as the higher and more rocky terrain results in the highest yan yun and minerality of Wuyi yancha. As a caveat, too, the area considered Zhengyan has been…expanding rapidly since the early 2000s, with the increasing popularity of yancha and the increased demand for production in these famous areas, leading to some concerns like soil depletion, overharvesting, and general plant health. This expansion is administrative and marketing-based, not geographic. We see a similar issue with the “three pits, two streams” classification, with modern consensus recognizing more core areas in Zhengyan.
Banyan (“半岩区,” “half cliff”)- Banyan material refers to the production zone surrounding the Zhengyan core region; Banyan material is still located within the WuyiShan Scenic area, though at a lower elevation than Zhengyan. Banyan yancha is still quality material and will have a strong yan yun and minerality to it.
Zhoucha (“洲茶,” or “outside tea”)- Zhoucha is the third region and refers to tea grown outside of the scenic area, but still in the general area; Zhoucha primarily grows in the riverplains of WuyiShan, outside of the rocky peaks, growing in the sandy and loamy soil. The quality, while lesser than Banyan and Zhengyan, is still decent and better than tea grown in Waishan.
Waishan (“外山,” literally “outer mountain”)- yancha produced outside of the three areas mentioned above; Waishan material generally is more affordable, as the further one gets from Zhengyan, the less sought-after the teas generally are (which isn’t entirely true, but is for most cases).
“Three Pits, Two Streams” (“三坑两涧,” “Sān Kēng Liǎng Jiàn”)- the collective name for the five key production areas in the Zhengyan region, the Three Pits and Two Streams are generally considered the most desirable amongst yancha drinkers. The three pits are niu lan keng, hui yuan keng, and dao shui keng, and the two streams are liu xiang jian and wu yuan jian. This is the area that used to be classified as the only area where Zhengyan could be produced, though Zhengyan has been expanding in recent years, as mentioned earlier.
Niu Lan Keng (“牛栏坑,” “Cow Fence Pit”)- a long, narrow valley in Wuyishan with lots of “decayed” rock material, making for a unique and mineral-laden soil, perfect for growing yancha. Niu Lan Keng is best known for its rou gui, with prices approaching $15.00/g or more for the highest quality material. Tea lovers and growers affectionately refer to the tea here as “beef” tea as a pun. The first character of the location, "Niu" (牛), means "cow," while "Rou" (肉) in rou gui means "meat". Combining the "Niu" from the location and the "Rou" from the tea's name creates "Niu Rou" (牛肉), or the Chinese word for “beef,” hence the humorous name.
Hui Yuan Keng (“慧苑坑,” “Wisdom Garden Pit”)- the largest of the pits, with several sub-areas where yancha is grown and produced. Hui Yuan is surrounded by craggy mountains and ravines, forming a unique basin environment where the tea trees can grow.
Dao Shui Keng (“倒水坑,” “Inverted Water Pit”)- a growing area within Zhengyan, dao shui keng is located between Niu Lan Keng and Liu Xiang Jian. Dao shui keng is a deep pit with high humidity in the middle of the canyon; the soil is high in potassium and manganese, moderately acidic, and has a high concentration of moss, creating unique characteristics in the finished tea.
Liu Xiang Jian (“流香涧,” “Flowing Fragrance Stream”)- this area is also sometimes referred to as Dao Shui Keng, as the original name was, in fact, Dao Shui Keng. The area was renamed after a poem written by Xu Huotong from the Ming dynasty. The valley is only about 1 meter wide and 100m long, with large cliffs on both sides. Liu Xiang Jian is known for its rou gui and shui xian production and is renowned for its beauty in Wuyishan.
Wu Yuan Jian (“悟源涧,” “Enlightenment Source Stream”)- a stream that flows through Ma Tou Yan, formed through the many small streams that careen through San Yang Feng, forming WuYuan stream. Wu Yuan stream is surrounded by steep, craggy peaks and the stream creates a unique growing region with fine gravely soil.
Da Keng Kou (“大坑口,” “Big Mouth Pit”)- a deep, long canyon home to the scenic viewing area for DaHongPao, Da Keng Kou has tea gardens on both sides of its pit. Da Keng Kou also serves as a “connector” of sorts, connecting the streams of WuYi between Tian Xin Yan and the river. Da Keng Kou also is commonly included as Jiu Long Ke and is characterized by the striking DanXia landforms of WuyiShan.
Jiu Long Ke (“九龙窠,” “Nine Dragons Dwelling”)- this is a deep, lengthy canyon leading towards Tian Xin Yan and is known as the area where the most famous yancha originated: Da Hong Pao. Da Hong Pao was first harvested in these craggy cliffs, with the edges of the cliffs jutting outward like the coiled lengths of 9 large dragons deep within the mountains.
San Yang Feng (“三仰峰,” “Three-Peaked Summit”)- the highest peak of WuyiShan’s 99 mountains, San Yang Feng is a 717.7m, 3-peaked mountain consisting of Da Yang (“big peak”), Zhong Yang (“Middle Peak”), and Xiao Yang (“Little Peak”), or 3 east-facing peaks. These three mountain peaks are surrounded by dense forests of ancient trees, clouds, and mists, with high humidity and a superior environment for growing tea trees.
Tian Xin Yan (“天心岩,” “Heaven Heart Rock”)- an area in the northeastern part of WuyiShan, located within Zhengyan between Niu Lan Keng and Da Keng Kou. Arguably, this should be included in the Three Pits and Two Streams classification, as the area itself is prized for producing quality teas, especially historically at the temple.
Zhu Ke (“竹窠,” “Bamboo Nest”)- the bamboo nest is a natural valley between the vast cliffs of WuyiShan, on the western side of the Liu Xiang Jian, located within the Hui Yuan pit. Zhu Ke has a unique soil composition: thick soil layers with looser topsoil and a higher gravel content, creating a soil rich in nutrients and minerals superior for growing tea trees.
Shui Lian Dong (“水帘洞,” “Shuǐ lián dòng,” “Water Curtain Cave”)- a cave located in Hui Yuan Keng considered one of the most important areas for yancha. Water Curtain Cave, also sometimes called “Waterfall Cave” is surrounded by mountains on 3 sides and has a persistent fog with a humidity level of 85%. The soil itself has a significant amount of volcanic rock, weathered by time, with the soil having around 30% rock content or more. These unique conditions make tea from Shui Lian Dong a unique and striking experience.
Gui Dong (“鬼洞,” “Ghost Cave” or literally “Hole of Ghosts”)- located in the Hui Yuan pit area, the “cave” is a canyon of sorts with strong windflow, creating a sort of whistling noise that sounded supernatural, like ghosts descending the cliffs, giving it the name “ghost cave.” Gui Dong is humid, shady, and has uniquely fertile soil, being the originator of tie luohan, bai jiguan, zuiguifei, and many other famous types of Yancha. The most famous, by far, would be tie luohan (iron arhat) and bai jiguan (“white cockscomb”).
Ma Tou Yan (“马头岩”,” “Horse Head Rock”)- Ma Tou Yan is one of the most famous and desirable regions for yancha. Ma Tou produces tea with high fragrance and impressive, lasting flavor with noticeable yanyun. The rou gui from Ma Tou Yan is especially regarded and commands high prices.
Bi Shi Yan (“碧石岩,” “Emerald Stone Cliff”)- a subzone within Zhengyan, Green Stone Rock is the northeastern side of the Lian Hua Feng and is located in the northern part of the Wuyishan National Scenic Area. Bi Shi Yan is exposed to sunlight and has a longer, more abundant period where the tea is exposed to sun. Teas from Bi Shi Yan have a noticeable intense aroma and flavor profile with a strong yanyun and minerality, and are limited in harvest due to the smaller size of the growing region in that terroir.
Lian Hua Feng (“莲花峰,” “Lotus Flower Peak”)- one of the peaks in Zhengyan, the terrain is composed primarily of weathered red sandstone with interlayered conglomerate. The soils are shallow, mineral-rich, and slightly acidic, with excellent drainage. Seasonal mists gather around the peak, and shaded cliff faces create a cooler microclimate with steady humidity. Water runoff from the rock walls feeds small streams that help sustain the surrounding tea gardens. Teas from the Lian Hua Feng are often noted for their layered aroma, firm body, and a balanced integration of floral high notes with grounded mineral strength and a prominent yanyun.
QingShi Yan (“青狮岩,” “Green Lion Rock”)- QingShi is another one of the most famous of the 99 mountain peaks- located north of Water Curtain Cave, QingShiYan has a moderate pH level and the soil is made of sandstone and different conglomerate, as well as having a stream that flows year-round, creating a distinct yanyun and flavor.
Click here to return to the table of contents.
Villages and Townships:
Wu San Di Village (“吴三地村,” “Wú Sāndì Cūn”)- a small, traditional village of about 60 households, laying outside zhengyan, Wu San Di produces a cleaner, lighter mineral profile with bright aromatics, making them approachable daily-drinking options. Many small family producers in the village grow modern high-aroma cultivars such as Huang Guan Yin, Jin Mudan, and Rou Gui. While Wu San Di teas lack the deep yan yun of Zhengyan material, they often deliver excellent value and remain representative of the broader Wuyi regional character; I, myself, will often reach for Wu San Di material as daily drinkers and do enjoy the flavor profiles, finding them the best bang for the buck, so to speak, with yancha. As a caveat, Wu San Di is sometimes identified as banyan-adjacent rather than outside zhengyan.
XingCun (“星村,” “Xīngcūn”)- Sitting outside zhengyan, Xingcun is one of the most important administrative and agricultural centers of Wuyishan and historically served as a major hub for processing and trading yancha. Within Xingcun, there are 15 smaller villages, like Huangcun Village, Caodun Cillage, LiXin, Liqian, Liyuan, Zhoutou, Jingshui, Qianlan, Jukou, Fenglin, and Chengdun villages. The soil here is mixed loam rather than sheer cliff rock, resulting in teas that are aromatic and pleasant but lightly mineral compared to Zhengyan material. Many of the more modern cultivars (e.g., Huang Guan Yin, Jin Mudan) are grown here.
TianXin Rock Village (“天心岩村,” “Tiān xīn yán cūn”)- Tianxin Village is the birthplace of Oolong tea in WuyiShan and serves as the root of yancha processing techniques. The tea planting history in TianXin dates back to the Tang Dynasty with the 800-year-old tea competition tradition still continuing to this day.
Click here to return to the table of contents.
Sources: